All About Water Pumping Windmills
Categories: On The Farm
How a windmill works
The windmill's wheel (fan) has 15 to 40 galvanized steel blades which spin around on a shaft. The shaft drives a geared mechanism that converts rotary motion to an up-and-down motion like a piston in a car engine. That motion drives a long pump rod (aka sucker rod) going up and down inside of a pipe in the well. Attached to the end of the pipe is a cylinder with a sealed plunger going up and down in it that forces the water up the pipe. The seals (cupped seals that ride up and down in the pump-cylinder) are called "leathers." (Neoprene instead of leather is used in most cylinders today.) Each up-stroke pulls a certain amount of water into the cylinder, but on the down-stroke a check valve (aka foot valve) in the bottom won't let it be pushed out, so the water has nowhere to go but up (with the next upstroke). It's a simple efficient design that has remained virtually unchanged for more than 100 years.
An average windmill (6 to 8 foot-diameter wheel) spinning in a brisk breeze (15 to 20 mph) will pump about three gallons a minute whenever the wind blows (about 35 percent of the time in many areas). That adds up to about 1500 gallons a day. Another example of output could be calculated by using a 10 to 12-foot wheel pumping against a theoretical 100-foot head (the column of water lifted from the static water level to the tank). This larger windmill will pump an annual average of 4500 gallons per day, or 1.63 million gallons of water a year. This figure is based on moderate winds (8-12mph) blowing part of the time, running the mill at half its rated capacity, and brisk winds (15 to 25 mph) blowing about 30 percent of the year and running the pump at maximum capacity.
Wind speed has an important effect on pumping capacity. Below certain speeds the mill can't "get going." Above 25-35 mph (depending on the model) the windmill's overspeed controls limit the output by turning (furling) the direct face of the wheel out of the main wind direction. This design feature protects the windmill mechanism, but it also limits the pumping rate no matter how fast the wind blows.
There is an optimum wind speed for every windmill size and model. The number of vanes (sails) in the wheel increases its sensitivity to low wind speeds (to get started), but other factors such as fan diameter, the depth of the static water level in the well, and cylinder size all play a part in output capacity. ("Static" water level is the measurement from the top of the well casing to the water surface down in the well—not the depth the pump is set.)
Uses for a windmill
The most common practical uses for a windmill are to irrigate pastures and gardens, water livestock, and supply, and aerate ponds. Anything more than that requires a holding tank on "stilts," or a water tower, to provide enough pressure to be "on tap" for household use. I placed my water system on top of a hill so the water is gravity-fed for all my needs on the property. (More about my system later). I love the idea that if the power fails, I'll still have fresh water—lots of fresh water. To me, that's self-sufficiency and a nice sense of security. Evidently a lot of backwoods people feel that way because windmills are making a comeback. Aermotor claims that sales of windmills, both for generating electricity and for pumping water, are increasing worldwide, and more windmills are pumping water today than at the turn of the century.
Is a windmill for you?
If you are contemplating putting up a windmill on your property, the first consideration is to determine whether your site and your budget can accommodate one, then scout out the best location for it. A basic rule of thumb is to place your windmill a minimum of 25 feet above any obstructions within a 150-foot radius.
Next, set up an anemometer or wind odometer to measure wind speed and volume over a period of time ( a year is good). You can buy or rent a wind odometer that will measure the number of miles of wind that runs past your site. Divide that figure by the total hours it ran and you will get your average wind speed for the site. You can also call the local airport and weather station for comprehensive wind data in your area.
Having a well drilled
First you'll need to obtain a permit from the local county offices.
Next, call a good reputable well driller (from the Yellow Pages under wells and pumps—or by word of mouth) and see what he can do for you. If he predicts the water is somewhere else on your property other than the site you picked, you'll have to do some compromising.
The going rate to have a well drilled is about $15 per foot here in southern Oregon (surprisingly the same cost as back in 1981 when I had my two wells drilled). That figure includes the steel well casing installed in 10 to 50-foot lengths (depending on your soil) and possibly a well liner all the way down (4 to 6-inch PVC pipe). Some soil stratification requires a well liner to keep the fractured strata from caving in on the well.
Chances are you'll hit a good water table between 100 and 400 feet, the average depth being 250 feet. Figure a well will cost you somewhere between $1500 and $6000. (Of course there are no guarantees; these are just average ballpark figures I gleaned from well drillers around this dry and spotty valley. Some parts of the U.S. may not have a water table anywhere near the surface and for all practical purposes, no matter how deep you drill or how much money you have, you may never hit water at all.)